Bocas del Toro - Sea, Nature and Fun

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Where have 12 countries filmed their Survivor series including France, Spain, Italy and Russia? The answer is the exotic Bocas del Toro Archipelago de Bocas in the Caribbean of West Panama near the border with Costa Rica. Classic Caribbean aqua blue water fringed beaches washing up against nature dense rainforest and a low key friendly town- these are some of the unique attractions of the islands of Panama's Bocas del Toro archipelago.

Bocas is one of Panama's top tourist attractions and with good reason. Where else can you enjoy beautiful beaches with scarcely a soul in sight and rainforests so fine Lonely Planet Guide calls them "a biologists fantasy". Bocas town itself has a rich history, a lively nightlife and a friendly, mostly English speaking population.Like the rest of Panama Bocas is even blessed by nature- no hurricanes ever touch these shores, as they do the Central American neighbors. Add to that relatively low prices and you've got the "Boca's Boom".

The first white man to anchor in these peaceful waters was Christopher Columbus in 1502. He repaired his boats on Carinero Island, named by him. Later, English pirates found Bocas the perfect safe haven and later it became a commercial center for trade in cacao and bananas. Immigrants from Jamaica made Bocas an English speaking province in a Spanish speaking nation. Even today, most adults speak English.

At the turn of the century, the town of Bocas del Toro was the first headquarters of the United Fruit Company. Boasting of 25,000 inhabitants, it had six consuls and five newspapers. A banana blight in the l920's put an end to this vibrant commercial center, but historical buildings and a stately park still stand.

In the last few years, Bocas has been experiencing a real-estate boom. Prices of land have skyrocketed. Still, they represent some of the best buys in the Caribbean. Who is buying in Bocas? Mostly American "baby boomers" who are snapping up water and beach front lots with an eye to building a vacation/retirement home in the near future. Even on a retirement income, in Bocas you can enjoy "the good life" in safe and beautifull surroundings.

Hotels start from$10 a night for the pack backer crowd, with lots of attractive middle range hotels in the $25-60 range. The one upscale hotel in town is Tropical Suites. Out of Bocas town, there are several excellent eco-resorts along the coasts: Maccabite Hotel is mid range and there are three upscale eco-resorts:Punta Caracol, Tranquilo Bay and Al Natural. See their listings below.

To get there: Aeroperlas and Air Panama have several daily flights from Panama City to Bocas. Round trip tickets from Panama City are around $120.

Or you can take a bus or car to Almirante on the mainland and take a launch ('taxi 25') or ferry to the main island, Isla Colon. In Almirante there is a safe place to leave your vehicle for the duration of your stay in Bocas. The drive between David and Almirante is very scenic.

Getting around: The town is small and you get most places by walking. Bocas taxis are inexpensive and will take you anywhere on the island. You can also arrange for them to take you to a beach and come get you at a later hour. Bikes are also available to rent. If you are walking around late at night, stay on the main streets.

Highlights: beaching, island tours, snorkeling, diving, surfing, dolphin observation, sea kayaking, wind surfing, laid-back nightlife, ecotourism/rainforest tours, birdwatching, vacation/retirement homes and communities.

Best beaches:

Note: A number of Bocas beaches are not safe for swimming beyond waist deep because of seasonal undertows. Before you swim out into the waves consult your tour operator and/or the locals regarding the safety of swimming at a particular beach

Bluff Beach: On Isla Colon where most of the hotels are. It is the easiest one to reach and the first really scenic beach. You can take a taxi or bicycle for a picturesque and adventurous ride a few miles to Bluff Beach. Just before Bluff Beach is Punch Beach, a less scenic beach but one with a reputation for great surfing. Neither of these beaches are safe for swimmers- just for getting wet.

Bocas del Drago: This is Bocas' best swimming beach, also on Colon Island just a a bit farther away. When the seas are calm, the snorkeling is also good.Get there by car or boat.

Red Frog Beach: On Isla Bastimientos, this is Boca's most beautiful beach. And you won't miss the red frog with black polka dots who calls out to you as you walk through the rainforest. Isla Bastimiento is the only place in the world where this scarlet creature lives. Strong undertows so just go in waist deep.

Playa Larga: Another lovely beach on Isla Bastimientos and if you camp out you may see the famous sea turtles.

Cayos Zapatillos Spectacularly beautiful. Just a water-taxi ride away from the mainland-the Zapatilla Keys' white sand beaches lined with palms and calm turquoise waters take you away from it all.


Things to do:

Diving and Snorkeling: The best places for diving are Coral Key, Dark Wood Reef ,Hospital Point and Punta Juan buoy. For snorkeling, the Garden near Cayo Nancy, and Punta Juan buoy are excellent. Go with a diving tour operator or hire a water taxi and go on your own.
When diving in Bocas you will be able to see some of the best preserved hard and soft coral in the world. You will also have the opportunity to see sting rays, lobsters, many species of crabs and a countless variety of tropical reef fish.
Get certified: Bocas Water Sports offers PADI scuba courses from Discover Scuba, open water including certification in Advanced, Rescue, First Aid or Dive Master courses that cost a lot less than similar courses in the United States.

Indian Village Tour:For something different, take a day trip to an authentic Ngobe Butle Indian village- a once in a lifetime encounter with a 2000 year old culture. You'll learn about their fascinating way life, little changed from the time when Columbus discovered this region. The boat ride up has a river with stunning jungle scenery and wildlife.

Rainforests: Flora is everywhere- mangroves and jungles line the coast. Exotic Bird Island has birds seen only on that island. You need a nature guide to enjoy more than just exotic scenery and so we recommend you take a tour with a tour operator.

Nightlife: Bocas is a low-key and friendly town where it is easy to meet with fellow travelers and the local people. In some places, every night it's a party. Start with Mondo Taitu, to meet an international mix of young travelers and surfers, and an equally diverse menu of specialty island cocktails--think mojito with a twist--served by the young, hip and friendly bartenders. Also fun is the newer La Iguana, right on the water. Don't forget to visit the famous Barco Hundido, also known as the "wreck-deck," which is a good place to get your dance on. Also on the water is the Buena Vista Deli & Bar, known for good times and good food. Due to some crime in Bocas recently it is advisable to stay on the lighted main streets at night.

Souvenir Shopping: Souvenir shops can be found on Bocas main street and hippies from all over the world can be found lining the mainstreet with their crafts and beautiful jewelry. Also, on the opposite end of the main street just before the end, is a display of molas attended by the Kuna Indians. Panama is famous for its molas-colorful reverse applique cloth designs. This humble stand has the best selection of molas we have seen anywhere. You have the added satisfaction of purchasing directly from the Indians and knowing your dollar will go a long way to helping these worthy people.

Restaurants: Bocas restaurants are easy on the budget and have a surprising variety of offerings. For seafood we recommend El Pecado and El Refugio on for dishes that will satisfy the sophisticated palate but are reasonably priced. Across the street from El Pecado, La Laguna Hotel offers mostly Italian dishes including a yummy pizza, and has street side seating making it the best place in town for people watching. Bahia Hotel has a good Italian restaurant with some of the best pizza in town. For excellent 'gringo' food, we highly recommend Buena Vista. Kum Ja is the only Chinese restaurant and the food is inexpensive and good. Another popular and good restaurant is Om for East Indian food. If you are just looking to take out a beach-picnic lunch, stop by at the Super Gourmet Deli for epicurean sandwiches.

Dining on the islands outside of Bocas: For seafood in incomparable surroundings take a water taxi to restaurant Coral Cay, perched on stilts over the sea. Your lobster will be picked live from a sea cage and you will enjoy gorgeous seaviews all around as you wait for your dish to be prepared. This is a Bocas must-do. Most tours will take you there as part of their route.

Special Treats : Some of the best cinnamon rolls anywhere are baked in a Bocas bakery. Buy them at the Laguna Hotel restaurant and in The Gourmet Shop, (which has lots of other goodies) at the end of main street by the sea.

Learn Spanish: The best way to learn a language is to be in a place where the language is spoken. Take advantage of your Bocas stay by taking a Spanish course at Spanish-By-The-Sea, an excellent place to learn Spanish. See their listing below.

Where to Stay: Bocas has a hotel for every budget. You can stay in Bocas Town with many hotels with sea views or on a nearby island for a close-to-nature experience. See our hotel listings below.