Casco Viejo, Panama City- History, Culture and Non-Stop Ambience
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A 333 year-old neighborhood where you'll absorb history and culture just wandering around. As all the guide books will tell you, most of Panama City’s historical buildings are located in the 38 block area referred to interchangably as “Casco Viejo”, “Casco Antiguo”, “San Felipe” .(The blocks, by the way, are called “manzanas” or “apples”). From the Golden Altar of Iglesia San Jose to the Canal Museum, you literally cannot turn a corner in the old city without seeing something of historical signficance.
But the unmistakeably Panamanian sounds and smells that fill the Casco Viejo air may be its greatest treasure. Street peddlers at dinner crying out “bollo!” as they hawk the Panamanian soft corn favorite; the presidential honor guard’s cheerful cadance while performing early morning callethenics; Kuna Indians selling colorful molas on the Paseo de Bovedas as lovers stroll hand-in-hand eyeing the distant Canal; old-timers who have seen it all on park benches as their grandchildren play Plaza soccer around groups of passing tourists.
Like most of the once-grand Latin American old quarters, the decades of decay are beginning to give way to restoration by a bold few, attracted by charming buildings, cheap space and a lifestyle that just somehow feels authentic. The resulting eclectic blend of trendy restaurants, ramshackle houses, bohemian bars and vibrant street life will seem familiar to anyone who has had the fortune to spend time in a “revitalized” area before it became known to the masses.
WHAT TO SEE:
PLAZA MAYOR: Also known as Parque Catedral or Plaza de la Independencia, is the main square in Casco Viejo. The mix of Spanish, French and American architecture found in and around this square characterizes the neighborhood. Panamanian independence was declared in this plaza on November 3, 1903 and many important historical buildings, such as the Canal Museum, Municipal Palace, Cathedral Church, and the religious ruins of the Jesuit Church, fringe the plaza. The Canal Museum provides an excellent overview of the history behind the canal’s construction in Panama.
COMPANIA DE JESUS CONVENT: The Jesuit convent and its church were built in 1673, before the Spanish banished the Jesuits from the Colonies. In 1781 the complex burned down and was never rebuilt. The site also housed the first university and synagogue of the city.
LA PLAZA FRANCIA: The southern tip of the Casco Viejo Peninsula is Plaza Francia and is home to a large obelisk in honor of the ill-fated Frenchmen who, under Ferdinand De Lesseps, started the arduous task of building a sea level Canal in 1880. Surrounding the obelisk is an arcade of marble plaques ornately carved with the story of the valiant French effort. In addition to the French memorials, La Plaza Francia is also the current location of the French Embassy, the Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INAC), and the restaurant Las Bóvedas.
PASEO LAS BOVEDAS: Wrapping around the French Plaza and the Institute of Culture is Paseo Las Bovedas (Promenade of Vaults) that offers couples and tourists a charming stroll on top of the Old Spanish seawall. An excellent view of the Panama City skyline, the ships cued for their turn through the Canal, and the Bridge of the Americas can be seen on this walkway.
ARCO CHATO: Built in 1678, Arco Chato (The Flat Arch) played a deciding factor in Panama’s history and the construction of the Panama Canal. Spanning some 50 ft, Arco Chato was an architectural marvel for the fact that it resisted earthquakes and storms with no support other than its terminal arches. Logic reasoned that if this brick arch could withstand nearly 200 years with no visible means of support, then there was no real threat to constructing a lock-style canal. Ironically enough, in 2003, fireworks celebrating Panama’s Centennial brought down most of what was left of the then 300 plus - year old arch.
PRESIDENTIAL PALACE: Constructed in the old Customs Building, the structure was restored in 1922. Herons live inside the lobby of the entrance and contribute to its name, Palace of the Herons.
PLAZA SANTA ANA: Santa Ana at mid morning is the heart of popular commerce; there is life in every corner where almost everything imaginable is for sale: cell phones, fruits, grains, incense, bottles of medicinal medicine that promise “to make you rich” or “beautiful,” inflatable toys and religious paraphernalia. Café Coca Cola, which dates from the early Canal days, is a great local restaurant on the south side of the park that is still a favorite among locals and tourists alike, especially for breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT:
Brooklyn Cafe - On the Corner Avenida A and Calle 1ra is the Internet and coffee shop The Brooklyn Café. This quaint café makes some of the best carrot cake and banana bread in town and their lunch specials are definitely worth checking out.
Café Neri- Every neighborhood needs and Italian restaurant, and for Casco Viejo, Café Neri is it. A local hang out on the corner of Avenida Central and Calle 3ra, the outdoor patio is great place to grab a few drinks with friends and watch the residents of Casco Viejo wander by.
Costillitas - An elegant, yet affordable restaurant inside of Hotel Colombia on Plaza Bolivar. The menu has an array of salads, fish and meats with indoor and outdoor dining available. There is live acoustic music every Wednesday and Saturday night.
Ego- A Peruvian fusion tapas joint on Plaza Bolivar that can go toe-to-toe with any restaurant in the City for cuisine and chic. Offering both inside and outside dining areas, the shrimp brochette is highly recommended!
Granclement Ice Cream - You may have to wait in line to get your cone, but the lovely French couple that run Granclement ice cream shop will make up for it by giving you a free taste of as many of their 30 spectacular homemade flavours as you can handle; fom traditional chocolate, to Madagascar vanilla or rosemary. Located next door to Café Neri on Ave Central between 3a and 4a.
Las Bóvedas Restaurant Set in the vaults of Plaza Francia’s old-Spanish seawalls, Las Bóvedas Restaurant serves fine French cuisine that usually includes fresh fish, mixed meats, and New York steak. There is live music on Friday and Saturday nights.
Macarena Authentic Spanish tapas restaurant, set up with a traditional dining room on one side and a contemporary tapas bar on the other. On Calle Primera near Plaza Francia.
Mostaza Known for its meats, civiche and sangria, Mostaza’s cold and ordinary dining room is more than made up for by the outdoor tables in front of the stunning and historical Arco Chato.
S’cena Located in front of the old Union Club and above Platea jazz bar is S’cena, an elegant restaurant that serves the continental meets Spanish cuisine. The menu offers an affordable mixture of meat, seafood, and vegetable dishes and a great selection of wine.
René Café A brand new restaurant/art gallery . Unusual set up with one room tripling as the kitchen, art gallery and restaurant. Dishes include a variety of seafood and meats, and vary seasonally.Located next to the Iglesia de Catedral, one block from Plaza Catedral, next to the Centro de Salud. www. Renecafe.com 262-3487
Café de Neri/Casa Portugal Enjoy a traditional Portugese seafood and meat dish prepared in old fashioned Portugese cookware. Cozy, a good place to go for a long meal. Wide variety of spirits and only three dollars for a glass of wine. Located on the corner of Calle 3ra and Avenida Central
Casalanca Ribs, burgers and pasta—a mix of traditional Italian and American cuisine. Live Latin music Saturdays starting at 8. Located right in front of Plaza Bolivar.
Casuale Fine dining in Casco Viejo. This colonial home turned restaurant blends an old-world feel with modern, elegant cuisine. Open between the hours of 12-3, and 7-11 Monday through Saturday. Not open between the hours of 3 and 7 pm, Monday through Saturday. Open Sundays 12 to 4.Located on Calle 1ra, University Club building.www.restaurantecasuale.com 228-1017
Casa Suri Bordered by the walls of the famous colonial remnant Arco Chato. Ecclectic, cozy. Excellent steaks, paella, and seafood at reasonable prices.Located on Calle 2nda in the San Felipe Gallery.
